Good question! There are two times in which you might get your cannabis wet: 1. Water Curing 2. When you drop it The good news is; it doent't matter!. Water curing is a highly effective method for removing residual last part of the growing process, but drying and curing weed is paramount to. It's a brave new weed world, especially here in Oregon, which has taken to legalization like a duck to water. And speaking of water, a Seattle.
the Water in Weed
Air curing gives bag appeal and a strong taste where water cured weed is mild and smooth. Chlorophyll is not actually water soluble. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Home News Legalization Research Growing.
Can Marijuana Treat Dementia? Please enter your comment! Please enter your name here. You have entered an incorrect email address! Marijuana Nutrients Reinforced with Molasses April 22, The Weed Issue Apr 18, Vape Up or Ship Out: You might also be interested in these: Your Weekly Food and Drink Wrap: Newsletters Sign up for the latest news and to win free tickets to events.
Mercury Ticketing Buy tickets to events around Portland. MercPerks Great deals on local businesses. Expert growers unanimously agree, these are the best systems money can buy. Aeroponic systems are very expensive and generally are only used by professional growers. They offer the highest performance possible featuring unsurpassed plant growth, resin, potency and yields with incredible aromatics and taste. They also require heavy maintenance and great attention to detail.
Aeroponic systems require extremely close monitoring of pH and ppm levels and have a total reliance on constant electricity. Aeroponics is a relatively new technique.
Like in NFT, plants are suspended over the nutrients, but instead of a film of moving nutrients there are instead air stones spread under the roots in the nutrients that highly oxygenates them and produces bubbles. The bubbles burst and splash the roots with highly oxygenated nutrient solution. This can stimulate very impressive root growth, which leads to unbelievable bud growth.
This type of system is very often used for maintaining small clones. There is no growing medium to act as a water nutrient bank, which makes the system very delicate to use.
The plants are grown in a medium that is placed into slots along a long tube. Roots are suspended in a dark chamber without growing medium where they are misted with oxygen rich nutrient solution at regular intervals.
If the pump fails roots will soon dry and plants will suffer almost immediately. Tubes can vary in length anywhere from 1 meter to 20 meters! Looking inside the tube we will discover nozzles which mist down the roots of each plant with grow nutrients. The nutrient-filled reservoir is kept outside the tube in a tank.
The nutrients are pumped from the tank into and out of the nozzles and then the remaining solution that drips down from the plants is drained into another tank that is monitored and modified before being recycled and used again.
Well, Stealth Hydro has done it again and came up with a solution for modern day growers. Many growers right now are raving about their newly developed Bubbleponics line. Bubbleponics is a hybrid design that takes the best from both worlds of the bubbler and drip systems.
Since the nutrient mix is highly oxygenated, Bubbleponics converts its drip function to a constant feed flow directly to the inner roots. Without needing to take breaks to allow the root base to drain and absorb oxygen, plants in the Bubbleponics system are able to deliver unparalleled growth energy.
Cuttings placed into the system experience no noticeable transplant shock and practically start growing immediately. As the root mass of the respective plants grow larger, growth rate advantages were less evident, however, the plants in the Bubbleponics planter maintained their day lead over the Aeroponic plants throughout the entire cycle.
In a series of stress tests, plants in the Bubbleponics system performed remarkably when recovering from an over-fertilized condition. None of the other plants in the Aeroponic products survived this stress test. The tests concluded that the Bubbleponics system provided significant recovery advantages over other systems when it came to anything that stressed or killed that root mass.
The Bubbleponics system is great for the grower who is turned on to the incredible benefits hydroponic systems offer growers, but turned off from the heavy maintenance and complicated operation involved. Stealth Hydro has designed their Bubbleponics line with ease of use in mind.
Considering that there are no timers to set and tweak for the water pump, and that the unit is totally self contained and mobile, this is one of the simplest hydroponic designs most growers report they have ever used. From setup to final clean up, bar none, one of the best high speed hydroponic systems on the market. Before you make your final decision on what type of hydroponic system you are going to use, consider these last crucial factors: It is important with any hydroponic system to remember that unlike with soil, there is no buffer.
Roots need high oxygen levels or they will rot. And remember that plants need ample space to grow and should never be planted where their roots will intermingle. If you can effectively monitor and maintain a hydroponic system, go for it. You will not be disappointed.
They are incredibly fun systems to grow some awesome weed in. Hands down the single most important aspect of Hydroponics. The importance of clean fresh air or oxygen in the water is critical for vigorous plant growth aka dense heavy big resin-rich potent buds! Add an air pump. The addition of a 2nd air stone can make a significant difference in the speed of growth.
You can use a plastic T-coupler so you can add a second stone to the one air pump. Your plants will thank you. Refer to the Lighting section, same rules apply. You should be able to grow about 4 to 12 plants at a time. Anything bigger next standard size is watts and you are going to draw a lot of electricity. Anything smaller will limit the size of your garden to one or two plants. Hydroponic grow mediums exist to provide a stable base for your plant to grow its roots through and to hold up the weight of the plant.
Over the years many substances have been found to fill this role and they have different properties. Often a grower will use one or more of these mediums depending on the methods he has chosen for growing and the desired properties of the medium in the container being used. Remember the media will not provide any nutrition, it is just a support for the roots.
All nutrition comes from the hydroponic solution. Also keep in mind rockwool and other media may have to be soaked in pH adjusted water prior to use, especially when seeds are involved. Grow mediums are designed to be the perfect substance for your plants will take root in. Growing mediums such as rockwool or clay pebbles are the most popular and commonly used today.
Grow mediums are artificial grow substances designed to contain all the plants mineral needs and allow air to reach the roots to promote exceptional growth. Rockwool is the most widely used. Rockwool is literally spun rock; the rock is spun into a material that looks similar to the spun glass used for insulation. Most growers are using rockwool in some form. If allowed free drainage rockwool will retain just the right amount of moisture. Rockwool comes in multiple sizes of cube.
Some of the large blocks have holes in them to make it easy to insert the small plugs or cubes you used to clone the plant directly into the larger block. Rockwool must be completely submerged in water for 8hrs prior to use in order to remove any air bubbles in the medium. Rockwool cubes can be reused several times, and are pre-made for use with hydroponic systems. Perlite is nice, since it is so light. Perlite can be used instead of or in addition to lava, which must be rinsed and is much heavier.
They are also excellent for cloning. A lot of growers also use rockwool cubes for seed germination and rooting cuttings, as this is one of the easiest methods. Rockwool has many advantages. It is also impossible to over water and there is no transplanting involved. Rockwool holds 10 times more water than soil, yet is impossible to over-water.
This is because it always retains a high percentage of air. There is no transplanting — just place a starter cube into a rockwool grow cube, and when the plant gets very large, place that cube on a rockwool slab.
Since rockwool is easily reused over and over, the cost is divided by 3 or 4 crops, and ends up costing no more than vermiculite and lava, which is much more difficult to reclaim, sterilize and reuse repot when compared to rockwool. Vermiculite is also very dangerous when dry, and ends up getting in the carpet and into the air when you touch it even wet , since it dries on the fingers and becomes airborne.
For this reason, I do not recommend vermiculite when growing indoors. The thing is, it has a base alkaline pH, so you must use something in the nutrient solution to make it acidic 5.
And it is irritating to the skin when dry, but is not a problem when wet. To pre-treat rockwool for planting, soak it in a solution of fish emulsion, trace mineral solution and phosphoresic acid pH Down for a minimum of 24 hours, then rinse. This will decrease the need for pH concerns later on, as it buffers the rockwool pH to be neutral.
You must do this. After check the pH of the medium every time you water to be sure no pH issues are occurring. Hydroton clay pellets are also very effective and quite popular. Be sure to occasionally move them around so that the hydroton stays wet all the way through. Hydroton consists of lava rock or clay pellets that are available in different sizes and usually have a red coating on the outside. This inert medium is effective in continuous drip and ebb and flow systems. It is also an excellent choice anywhere you need drainage and some have used it for the bottom couple of inches of a hempy bucket to facilitate free drainage.
Soil is actually a composite of a number of substances and varies from on location to another. It is typically composed of rock, sand, clay, and organics. Organics are decomposed plant and animal matter and provide the nutrient content that is contained in soil, clay binds soil together and retains moisture, rocks and sand provide drainage to allow for root oxygenation. Additionally soil is usually teaming with microorganisms that are feeding on and breaking down the organics contained within it.
When growing a potted plant indoors you will probably want to mix perlite with your soil to enhance moisture retention. It is also highly recommended that potting soil be used in a pot rather than soil that you have dug up from the ground. A potting mix can be more carefully designed for optimal plant health and the soil outside will contain many unwanted forms of insect life that can, and will, infect and kill your plants. Another common concern with soil is that potting soils often already have fertilizers in them in addition to the nutrients contained in the organics.
In general, try to avoid potting soils with time release nutrients. If you do purchase a bag, be aware that the plant will not need any nutrients for a period of time.
Perlite is a porous white substance that is very absorbent and excellent at retaining and wicking moisture. Perlite is often used for cloning and mixing with other grow mediums, but it can also be used on its own.
Growers who use perlite as a sole grow medium will often purchase large coarse chunks rather than the smaller porous perlite that is more readily available in most areas. It is not recommended to use perlite in a circulating system because the fine dust that comes off the perlite will clog pumps over time.
The same fine dust brings a recommendation that when handling perlite you utilize a respirator device so that the dust does not harm your lungs.
This expansion is due to the presence of two to six percent combined water in the crude perlite rock which causes the perlite to pop in a manner similar to that of popcorn. When expanded, each granular, snow-white particle of perlite is sterile with a neutral pH and contains many tiny, closed cells or bubbles.
The surface of each particle is covered with tiny cavities which provide an extremely large surface area. These surfaces hold moisture and nutrients and make them available to plant roots. In addition, because of the physical shape of each particle, air passages are formed which provide optimum aeration and drainage. Because perlite is sterile, it is free of disease, seeds, and insects. Perlite has been used for many years throughout the world for soil conditioning and as a component of growing mixes with materials such as peat moss or bark.
Extensive studies have shown that the unique capillary action of perlite makes it a superior growing media for a hydroponic growth medium. Perlite is a completely inert substance so will not interfere with your feeding schedules. That being said, there are some manufacturers that put nutrients in their brand of perlite even though it is not indicated on the product label.
This material can be used but should be flushed thoroughly with water to wash out the nutrients. Perlite should be washed anyway to remove the fine dust that builds up in it. Vermiculite is a crushed volcanic rock medium that provides excellent drainage when mixed with other grow mediums. Vermiculite is inert but is not particularly suitable for use as a grow medium by itself. It consists of any of various micaceous minerals that are hydrous silicates resulting usually from expansion of the granules of mica at high temperatures to give a lightweight highly water-absorbent material that both is sterile and light in weight 5 to 8 lbs.
The pH of vermiculite will vary depending on where it is mined. Vermiculite is used extensively in the greenhouse industry as a component of mixes or in propagation.
It is usually sold in four size grades: The finer grades are used extensively for seed germination or to topdress seed flats.
Expanded vermiculite should not be pressed or compacted, especially when wet, as this will destroy the desirable physical properties. Many modern growers are beginning to use this newer grow medium.
Coconut fiber offers some of the buffering capacity of soil, drains well, retains enough moisture to be useful, and has little nutrient content. Proper hydroponic nutrient use is arguably the most important aspect of your entire setup. Your nutrient choice and mix will determine whether your plant will shrivel up and die in a couple hours, grow, grow big, or grow very very big. The percentage of the solution not used by N-P-K is trace elements and inert material.
Make sure when choosing your hydroponic-designed fertilizer that it supplies adequate amounts of nitrogen during early growth stages. Typical hydroponic fertilizers nutrient solutions have a nutrient ratio of or Fertilizers that will be used for later growth should have lower rations of N.
In order to get vigorous growth from your plants, you will need to find a nutrient solution that also supplies secondary and micro-nutrients. This will be listed on the label of the package. If your nutrient solution is deficient in magnesium very common then you can use Epsom salts as described in the soil nutrient section.
You can also purchase an iron-zinc-manganese combination solution at your local grow shop. Depending on what stage of growth your crop is in, you can adjust different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth for producing the highest quality and biggest size buds that grow as fast as biologically possible.
You must change plant foods often to avoid deficiencies in the plants. I recommend using 2 different plant foods for each phase of growth, or 4 foods total, to lessen chances of any type of deficiency. Change the solution more often if you notice the pH is going down quickly too acidic. Mostly due to cationic exchange, solution will tend to get too acidic over time, and this will cause nutrients to become unavailable to the plants.
During flowering the plant needs lots of Phosphorus, regardless of temperature. Do not over feed your plants!!!! Too much nutrients will kill your plants.
Especially when growing in hydroponics, there is no buffer! It is always better to use too little than too much. If you under feed, the plants will not die, but instead take longer to grow. These mixes work well and are the accepted standard mix recommended for newer growers.
It is simple to remember: Dissolve the salts in some warm water before adding to your nutrient reservoir. If you have any desire to mix your own fertilizers, it is important that you have a basic understanding of these three critical terms. Electricity is conducted due to the presence of ions electrically charged particles in any given solution.
In hydroponic marijuana growing, the ions get there by introduction of salts via your fertilizers. EC electrical conductivity is a representation of how much potential a solution has to conduct electricity. So by testing the ability of a solution to conduct electricity, we can indirectly determine the amount of salts present… thereby knowing if we have the right concentration of fertilizers.
You want an E. There are multiple devices for measuring. Getting an accurate device is critical. CF Conductivity Factor basically represents the same information but expressed differently. Total Dissolved Solids TDS is the best measurement of the nutrient concentration of a hydroponic solution. Many meters will do this conversion. Total dissolved solids TDS is typically expressed in parts per million ppm. It is a measurement of mass and determined by weighing, called a gravimetric analysis.
A solution of nutrients dissolved in water at a strength of ppm means that there are milligrams if dissolved solids present for every liter of water. To accurately calculate total dissolved solids TDS , one would evaporate a measured filtered sample to dryness, and weigh the residue. This type of measurement requires accurate liquid measurement, glassware, a drying oven, and a milligram balance. For example, 50 mL of the ppm solution would leave 35 mg of salt at the bottom of a crucible after drying.
It can be determined with an inexpensive hand held meter. Nutrient ions have an electrical charge, a whole number, usually a positive or negative 1, 2, or 3. EC is a measurement of all those charges in the solution that conduct electricity. The greater the quantity of nutrient ions in a solution, the more electricity that will be conducted by that solution.
A material has a conductance of one siemens if one ampere of electric current can pass through it per volt of electric potential. It is the reciprocal of the ohm, the standard unit of electrical resistance. A siemens is also called a mho ohm backwards. The meter cannot directly measure TDS as described above, and instead uses a linear conversion factor to calculate it.
The meter uses an approximate conversion factor, because the exact composition of the mix is not known. Conversion factors range from. All ppm pens actually measure the value based on EC and then convert the EC value to display the ppm value, having different conversion factors between differing manufacturers is why we have this problem communicating nutrient measurements between one another.
The problem is that different ppm pen manufacturers use different conversion factors to calculate the ppm they display. Total Dissolved Salts TDS meters are essentially little volt meters that look at the voltage produced by a sensor, usually a couple of metal pins.
The nutrient solution acts like a battery electrolyte and the pins function as do plates electrodes in a battery. The idea is that a nutrient solution is more electrically conductive when there are more nutrient salts in solution, so more salts means more voltage. A little math is done in the machine to convert the voltage to ppm parts per million of dissolved solids.
There is a calibration adjustment so this math can be touched up to compensate for various factors. You will need a test solution to verify your meter once a week. You need one that will read at least ppm or ppm. There are other scales of measurement of nutrient concentration. They measure in units of millisiemens or mS instead of parts per million ppm. The numbers are convertible one scale to the other, but most references and discussion here cite the ppm scale.
Waterproof meters are both more expensive and worth it. If your meter allows you to switch between EC and TDS units, your conversion factor can be easily determined by dividing one by the other. Place the probe in the solution and read TDS in ppm. Average the conversion factors.
The more data points that you use, the closer you will be to finding your true conversion factor. A Note to Organic Growers: An EC meter has fewer applications for a soil grower because many organic nutrients are not electrically charged or are inert. Things like Fish Emulsion, blood meal, rock phosphate or green sand cannot be measured with a meter reliably when they are applied or in runoff.
Meters can only measure electrically charged salts in solution. The combination type meters like the one pictured above are real handy for the convenience of being able to take both readings simultaneously, or with a single touch of a button to switch between modes. The problem with combination meters is pH sensors like to be stored in a fertilizer solution, but TDS probes like to be stored indistilled water.
There are many parameters for acceptable PPMs floating out there today. Here is a decent guideline for the N-P-K standards.
Feel free to experiment, but make only gradual changes. These guidelines act as a foundation. Obviously the plant can tolerate more as it gets larger and has more root area to uptake nutrients and leaf area to transpire water. Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at ppm. The TDS is increased to ppm during peak vegetative growth.
During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to ppm. It is then reduced to ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. You may desire more Nitrogen during vegetative growth stages for example.
The key is NOT to obsess over the exact numbers. These are just general arameters that you can tweak under your own conditions. And again, the plant can tolerate more as it gets larger and has more root area to uptake nutrients and leaf area to transpire water.
Start light, gradually increase with each feeding as your plant can handle it. Keep in mind, the following estimates are given for soil mediums which can tolerate higher levels because the soil components will bond with many elemental ions; a hydro system needs to be more precise.
Also remember that these parameters are based on the assumption of using distilled water. It cannot be stressed enough that these are estimates. I wanted to offer a solid foundation for newer growers to measure from. These are quite conservative ones due to the fact that chemical fertilizers allow less room for error.
This Company Is Adding Weed to Sparkling Water
It's a cannabis mineral water you can do almost anything to. restaurants will be serving desserts infused with weed alongside a cognac. Of course, drinking enough water is important for your overall health, whether you 're smoking weed or not. But you definitely don't want to make. With strong weed no longer hard to find, home growing is a chance for cannabis may attract investment into lighting, water management and.